With your new trees and shrubs in the ground here are our guidelines for its establishment and continued health.

Watering

The number one requirement for the healthy establishment of your woody plants is its watering. There are different considerations to take into account depending on the size of the material at time of installation and the season it was installed. As a general guiding principal, you should be looking to water deeply at least once a week. If you have opted for our drip irrigation installation, the emitters and timer program are calibrated to follow our recommended guidelines for watering maintenance. Refer to the plant maturity guideline for expected number of seasons drip irrigation is to be utilized.

Spring Installation

Spring is a great time for installing woodies into your landscape. The key to its successful establishment is its regular watering. During this first season the plant is getting settled and has not put out mature roots into the soil. With this in mind, we recommend regular watering to help plants during their establishment. The caveat to this is if regular rain events occur, producing average rains of 1” weekly, frequent waterings are unnecessary.

4 Hours or Less of Sun = weekly watering

4-8+ Hours Sun = water every 5 Days

8-12+ Hours Sun = water every 3-5 Days and use signs of drought stress (wilting leaves) to signal cycle frequency

Fall Installation

The fall is a great time to install and establish woody plants. Typically, watering requirements are reduced due to the cooler and rainier conditions. Watering will vary depending on how late in the season the installation was performed. As a general guide, watering up until the first significant frost is recommended.

Deciduous

With deciduous plants, as they are losing their leaves and after leaf drop, watering is less critical as the plants are going into dormancy. It is unlikely their roots will dry out as they are surrounded by soil and are insulated well. A weekly watering until frost is our recommended strategy to keep their roots from drying out.

Evergreen

With evergreen plants, watering is more important as they are actively growing all season. Watering up until your outside hose bibs are closed is recommended to ensure good moisture at the root level before winter temperatures (when watering is not possible). Should consistent rains be present, producing on average of 1” of rain weekly, this will be sufficient in watering your plants. A final deep soaking before turning off house water is recommended to keep the soil moist throughout the winter months.

4 Hours or Less of Sun = weekly watering

4-8+ Hours Sun = watering every 5 Days

8-12+ Hours Sun = watering every 3-5 Days and using signs of drought stress (wilting leaves) to signal cycle frequency

Watering Instructions

For all plants, deep waterings are ideal to insure that water will soak down into the base of a plant’s rootball. This can happen in the form of watering with a shower spray pattern (with your watering hose attachment) or running a hose and having water trickle out of it’s end for a very slow release. With either, the water should be focused at the base of the plant and allow for the watering dish that was created at time of its installation to fill. If utilizing the shower wand method, fill the watering dish as the base of the plant fully, wait for the water to soak into the soil, and repeat a 2nd time. If utilizing the trickle method, water might not fill to the top of the watering dish if your soils are well draining. Watering each plant 10-60 minutes (depending on volume of water flow and infiltration rate of soil) or until watering dish is full is a good general guideline.

Plant Maturity Watering Guidelines

3-7 Gallon sized Plants - Water for at least 1 season after installation. Afterwards, water at signs of drought stress as needed.

10-25 Gallon sized plants - Water regularly for at least 2 seasons after installation. Afterwards, water at signs of drought stress as needed.

Ball & Burlap sized plants - Water regularly for at least 3 seasons after installation. Afterwards, water at signs of drought stress as needed. Slow trickle watering with the end of a hose or with soaker hose is recommended for best soaking, Expect to run water for 20-60 minutes depending on soil drainage.

Pruning

There is nuance to every plant when it comes to pruning but here are some general guidelines that will ensure healthy plants.

Deciduous Woodies

For trees and shrubs that drop their leaves, typically the best time to prune is when they are dormant. We usually prune in late winter/early spring to avoid winter and summer stress. Some plants that flower on old wood might have a reduction in flowering. The best time to prune and maximize the flowering potential on these types of plants is after flowering. Unless hard pruning (removing most of the mature branches on a plant), flowering is not reduced to the point of negatively impacting its flowering display. With this in mind, pruning during the season is often appropriate and possible. We typically stop pruning by September to avoid triggering new growth that is sensitive to frost.

Evergreen Woodies

Similar to deciduous plants, evergreens benefit from pruning outside of the late fall/winter time frames. Here maintenance pruning during the summer is recomended to keep more formally pruned plants in shape (yews, arborvitae, boxwood). Again we avoid pruning after September to avoid new growth from being damaged from winter temperatures as it gives the plant time to harden off this new growth.

Fertilization

Typically we do not recommend constant fertilization for our plants. At the time of planting, compost and fertilizer are utilized for the plants establishment. In average soils, this is generally enough to get a plant going and to maintain its health. In circumstances where a plant looks to be struggling, or if a plant is fruit bearing or has high flower production (like blueberries or hydrangeas), fertilization can be a great way to help a plant rebound for the season. Typically fertilization is performed in the early- mid spring timeframe to provide the boost a plant needs as the growing season starts. Rarely do we recommend summer or fall fertilization unless specific maintenance is performed where fertilization is helping the plant recover. Watering is typically the recommended maintenance for stressed plants during the summer. Using an organic, slow release fertilizer like Plant Tone or Holly Tone will ensure that the plants are not burned by over fertilization.

With our suburban meadows we aim to create low maintenance and beautiful spaces for our clients and pollinators to enjoy. Here is an outline of establishment expectations and general maintenance guidelines for its success.

Watering

The most critical time for the meadow’s establishment is in its first month. Here is where we recommend performing supplemental watering as needed. Unlike woody plants, the roots of native grasses and wildflowers grow much more rapidly and establish quickly. We look at the first weeks as the most critical time for aiding establishment. After the first season, watering is no longer a requirement and can be performed to taste. During prolonged droughts, meadow plants will often adapt by growing less tall, flowering less, and converting their energy to producing seed earlier than in times of more abundant water. Under these drought conditions watering will help prolong bloom times and keep the plants looking fuller, but it is by no means necessary for the long term success of the plants. On the other side, overwatering during times of abundant natural rain could lead to adverse plant health. Lastly, watering should always be deep and less frequent to avoid oversaturated soils and root rot. Letting the soil slightly dry out between waterings will promote deeper root development.

Spring Installations

Post-installation, we recommend utilizing overhead irrigation such as a tripod sprinkler. Watering once a week for an extended time (typically 30 minutes to an hour) will allow for the deep watering that plants establishing need. If your Suburban Meadow is installed during a drought, watering every 4 days for the first couple weeks will help keep the the more immature roots happy with moist soil. Weekly waterings during the summer are great if you want to set a sprinkler up and not worry about drought stress. If you prefer a more nuanced take, water as needed during drought (which could be every 1-2 weeks). With summers that have consistent weekly or bi-monthly rain, watering is not necessary and can lead to overwatering, which is more of a concern with our meadows.

Fall Installations

Typically most of the grasses and flowers we install are headed into dormancy and seed production by September and October. During this time, watering is more about keeping the roots moist enough to not dry out instead of supporting active growth. We typically recommend weekly/bi-weekly watering up until October to help facilitate this. If seasonal rains are present, watering is largely unnecessary. Again because plants are dormant or going dormant, watering is not as critical for plant health at this time of the season.

Weeding

The most critical time to keep unwanted plants out of the garden is during the first season of the garden’s establishment. Mechanical pulling, or in the case of some invasive or perennial weeds, systemic herbicide applications are recommended to keep the balance of your new garden. As the planting matures and the canopy of the plants close, less weeds will present themselves due to being shaded out. June, July, and August will be the prime months to monitor the space for unwanted growth and removal. Annual weeds such as crab grass are less of a concern as it will unlikely affect the more mature perennial grasses and flowers installed and will fade from the planting as it is shaded out. Annual weeds like horseweed are better plants to focus on removing as their height and prolific seeding will persist if allowed to go to seed. Controlling annual weeds by removing them before setting seed is the most critical step to keeping them out of the meadow. Spot weeding as necessary, after the garden has matured, during the summer months is recommended.

Cutbacks & Deadheading

The growth cycle of your Suburban Meadow is most active during May-October. Outside of this summer to early fall timeframe, the garden can be cut back to reset spent growth. When you choose to do so is dependent on your aesthetic and ecological goals for the space. A spring time cutback is best if you wish to provide the most overwintering habitat for beneficial insects and sources of seed for song birds. Typically we preform a cutback between April-May. We also love the look of grasses and the seed heads of the flowers through the winter. A late fall cutback can be performed during the mid to late fall, October-December. This is best if you wish to reset the area before spring and do not appreciate the aesthetics of a meadow in the winter months. A late fall cutback will not harm your meadow plants as they have all gone dormant at this time of year. The tools for cutting back can be a push mower, hedge trimmer, or pruning sheers. The material can be removed from the space, or left over the bed as a natural mulch. Using a mower over the space will allow for the material to be mulched and be least visible before new growth emerges. A standard gas or electric push mower set to the highest cut setting will be a great tool for managing the meadow; one just needs to go slower and expect multiple passes to cut all material. Taller or denser grasses may benefit from being cut back with hedge trimmers or sheers before mowing. Cut back height is 4-6” above the ground to avoid damaging the crowns of the plants.

Dead heading flowers that are turning to seed heads during the season can be done to taste. Some flowering species will response to deadheading with a second flush of flowering growth. Deadheading is by no means necessary to he health of a garden and we generally recommend leaving seed heads up as they provide visual interest and food for birds. Deadheading can also be a way of controlling the spread of certain plants in the garden. Typically our gardens do not include overly aggressive, large plants that spread vigorously by seed, but dead heading and removing seed is a way to help ensure plants do not dance around the garden.

For our larger spaces, we look toward seeding native wildflowers and grasses to transition landscapes to ecologically abundant and beautiful spaces. The establishment and maintenance requirements are slightly different than our suburban meadows and the typical lawn. Here we go over the establishment and long term maintenance of these spaces.

Native Meadow Establishment

Watering

Different from typical turf grass and lawn establishment, native grasses and wildflowers and more adaptable to less frequent rain and moisture for establishment. To ensure high germination rates first season, we typically recommend a weekly, deep watering of the space. More frequent watering is possible to push quicker germination, but is not necessary. If seeded in the fall or very early spring, watering can be avoided all together if the size of the space makes it prohibitive or too costly. With irrigation there is more flexibility as to when the meadow can be seeded and allows for seeding into the summer months (June-July).

Weeding

Typically before our native meadow seeding work, at least one herbicide application is performed to kill existing growth for the space. Two or more passes are performed to provide a more thorough control of cool and warm season weeds. This sets up your meadow for the least amount of competition during its initial establishment when plants are more focused on root growth than flowering or foliage. If only one herbicide pass is performed, or the site has an especially prolific weed seed bank, infrequent mowing of the space during its first season is recommended (to prevent weeds from seeding and to prevent the slower-to-establish native grasses and wildflowers from being shaded out). While it might be painful to mow down annual or biennial wildflowers during this time, it acts as a better long term approach than letting an abundance of weeds establish.

For more perennial weeds or woody plants, hand pulling or spot herbicide treatments are recommended when they are immature.

Native Meadow Maintenance

After season one, the plants in your Native Meadow have established roots and are on their way to thriving maturity. There will be some plants that have not fully matured and/or that have not yet flowered, but will be healthy enough to be left on their own. Watering after the first season will be unnecessary and controlling weeds will be the primary concern.

From this point forward, we recommend that the meadow is mowed seasonally. This can be either in the late fall or early spring. A spring mowing will allow for the winter interest to remain while also providing important habitat for insects. Mowing in April - May is our ideal recommendation. If you wish to make the space more aesthetically tidy for the winter, a late fall (October-December) mowing can be performed. Seasonal mowing is also important to help curb woody plants from establishing themselves in the now infrequently mowed space. This is the main difference between your traditional lawn and a meadow. Mowing a lawn frequently keeps any growth of most woody species from occuring. In the circumstance of a meadow, because mowing has been reduced to seasonal cuts, woody plants will have the opportunity to establish themselves if not controlled seasonally. When it comes to invasive species like Asiatic bittersweet, it is best to manage these invasive woodies throughout the summer months (as seasonal mowing will not be enough to hinder their ability to persist year over year).

Mowable Meadow Establishment

With our Mowable Meadows, the approach to creating a meadow is different from our Native Meadow establishment.  We are seeding wildflowers into existing cool season turf grass lawns.  As a result, the timing and approach for establishment and maintenance is a bit different.

Watering

Our Native Meadow seeding does not need to be watered as frequently as a newly established lawn.  Typically a weekly watering is recommended to get wildflower seed to germinate.  Avoiding watering all together is also an option if you wish to conserve water and have less reliable first season germination during times of drought.

Mowing

The difference between the Native Meadow and the Mowable Meadow is that grasses in a Mowable Meadow are cool season and thus grow most actively during the spring when the flowers are still dormant or just emerging.  Especially when a space is newly seeded, mowing the grass until July is recommended. The short grass height allows for better germination of the wildflower seed.  In the fall, while we typically recommend keeping a native meadow standing, we do recommend cutting back the Mowable Meadow to keep cool season grasses from becoming too matted and to keep from having too much material build up for spring.

Mowable Meadow Maintenance

Watering

With our Mowable Meadows we do not recommend watering after the first season.  The reason for this is that we utilize the growth characteristics of our chosen wildflower species to thrive during times when cool season grasses are dormant.  In fact, the idea of this approach comes from our observations of seasonal drought that leaves most lawns brown during the summer.  With the Mowable Meadow we embrace cool season grasses that undergo summer dormancy and look towards more drought tolerant wildflowers to provide the main source of green and flowers during this time.

Mowing

Mowing the Mowable Meadow offers some options; keep it unmowed until the fall for a taller meadow grass aesthetic (typically ~2 feet tall), or mow it up until June to keep the grass height short, which in turn allows the flowers to be more visually dominant in the summer.  With both options, a fall cutback of the entire space is recommended to reset growth for the following season.

Over Seeding

Due to the growth characteristics of most cool season turf grasses, we recommend an annual overseeding of wildflowers in the fall to continue the work of establishing more flowers in the space.  We perform this typically during our aeration service as the seed can be deposited in the holes made from aeration.

Flowering Lawn Establishment

Overseeding Existing Lawn

Watering

The typical situation where our Flowering Lawn seed mix is dispersed into an existing lawn space: When seeding into an already established lawn, we typically do not recommend supplemental irrigation for the germination of the seed. There are multiple reasons for this.

1. A short, frequent watering schedule for new seedlings is counter to the health of an established lawn and can promote fungal diseases.

2. We are not concerned about establishing roots to prevent erosion (as the grass is already performing this function).

3. The grass is a natural mulch and moisture regulator. Because the seed is protected by the grass layer from baking in the sun, more moisture is kept at the soil surface than with a bare ground seeding. Also, the grass is keeping the heat of the direct sun off the of seed allowing it to remain cool and moist for optimal germination.

4. Extra watering of lawn can promote vigorous grass growth, making it harder for the new seeds to germinate and establish.

We are overseeding the area with a lot of seed per square foot and don’t expect every seed to germinate. With this method, we look towards the natural wet and cold cycles of spring and fall to do the work for us. When the rain conditions are not present for good germination, the seeds will remain dormant until weather allows for natural germination of the plants.

First Season Maintenance

There will not be much in the way of flowers the first season. Typically, year one, seeds germinate and seedlings establish their roots. It is during the second season where flowers are more prominent. To that end, we recommend mowing the space as you would your lawn (weekly or bi weekly) during the active growing time frames of spring and fall. As with all lawns, we recommend to keep cutting height in the 3.5”-4.5” height range, minimizing stress on grass and scalp damage on seedlings. A 3.5”-4.5” height will also allow light and resources to reach the new seedlings during their establishment season.

Second Season Maintenance & Beyond

It is during the second season that there is more flexibility in how the Flowering Lawn is managed. Here we can mow less frequently or not at all depending on your aesthetic goals. Getting at least one mow in before the end of May resets cool season grass growth and sets up the late spring and summer floral display. June and July offer peak blooms in the lawn, so to help promote more blooms we recommend to refrain from mowing during these two months. That said, a cut at the end of June might promote a second flower flush and can be experimented with in your landscape.

Mowing again at least once during the fall season is recommended to set up the space for new spring growth the following season.

New Seeding Bare Ground

When starting a new flowering lawn from scratch, we always recommend watering for at least the first season. The reason for this is that we want even germination, to get roots in the ground, and to stabilize the bare soil from erosion. If our client has opted out of Green Abundance setting up the irrigation, then here are some guidelines to follow for watering on your own.

Spring Seeding Watering Schedule

Phase 1: 0-21/30 days. Germination phase of seed. Water once daily in areas with less than 3 hours of sunlight (part shade to shade). Water for 10-15 minutes. For areas with full sun (4-8 hours), water 2 times daily, 12pm and 5/6pm. For sites with 8-12 hours, 3 times daily watering at 10am, 2pm, and 6pm for 10-15 minutes.

Phase 2: 30-90 days. The new plants are working on rooting themselves in this stage. Here, the frequent watering of phase 1 should transition to less frequent, deeper waterings. For shadier spots, 30 minutes every 4 days should be appropriate. For full sun areas, 30 minutes every 2-3 days is appropriate. If there are areas where water is starting to pool and sit for more than 6 hours after watering, this is a sign that too much water is being applied. Reduce time until any lingering pooling water is eliminated.

Phase 3: 90/100 days and beyond. Here the new seeding has been well established and it is time to transition to the least frequent schedule. This is where a deep weekly watering is best. For shadier areas, this is equivalent to 1/2” of rain weekly. For sunny areas, approximately 1” rain weekly is better. This is ideally performed in the early morning of around 6am to allow for some evaporation on the plants to reduce the potential for fungal issues. For sites with 8-12 hours of sun, a watering later in the evening at 7-8pm is appropriate to give the water extra time to soak in over the cooler evening hours.

Late Summer Seeding/Fall Watering Schedule

For a late summer Flowering Lawn seeding, usually only Phase 1 is needed during the first year (late summer into fall). From here Phase 2 tends to be naturally supported by the cooler wetter conditions of the fall and following spring. Phase 3 generally begins in the June/July time frame the following season. Depending on your site conditions and aesthetic goals, phase 3 water can be eliminated. Shadier sites tend to hold up well to no supplemental irrigation during the summer. For sites with full sun, a weekly waterings will allow the grass to maintain its green appearance and prevent dormancy. No watering can be performed in the summer if you do not mind the grass going dormant (changing color to tan). If allowing the grass to go dormant, it is imperative that mowing and foot traffic be eliminated for this area. Either of these activities will stress the grass that is trying to hibernate until wetter/ cooler conditions present themselves again.

First Season Maintenance

Mowing is not a main requirement during the first year of a bare ground Flowering Lawn installation, but the space can benefit from a few monthly mows during establishment. This is helpful in the case of keeping annual weeds from seeding or if annual rye was used as part of the mix (controlling its height and preventing it from seeding). We recommend to keep heavy foot traffic off of the area, allowing for more even establishment and all around healthier plants.

Second Season Maintenance

It is during the second season that there is more flexibility in how the flowering lawn is managed. With the flowers and grasses now better established, a more typical mowing regiment is possible (or not at all depending on your aesthetic goals). Getting at least one mow in before the end of May will reset the peak of spring cool season grass growth and setup the late spring and summer floral display to be more prominent with an overall shorter more manicured height. June and July will offer peak blooms in the lawn and avoiding mowing during this time will help promote more blooms. A monthly cut at the end of June might promote a second flowering flush and can be experimented with in your landscape.

Mowing again at least once during the fall season is recommended to set up the space for new spring growth the following season.

Congrats on your new ecologically minded lawn. This section discusses the establishment and maintenance of your Eco Lawn to keep your investment healthy and thriving for years to come.

Eco Lawn Establishment

Watering

The biggest success to the establishment of a new lawn will be its watering. To better understand the watering requirements for your new seeding please reference the following guidelines.

Establishment Phases

Phase 1 is designed maximize the germination of the newly installed seed. Frequent shallow waterings improve seed germination rates. With Phase 1, a frequent shallow watering is designed to keep the top layer of soil moist and prime the seed for good germination. After about 20-30 days, majority of your seeded lawn will have germinated and Phase 1 of its life cycle is complete. Next, Phase 2 requires a switch over from frequent waterings to less frequent, deeper waterings. As the roots are developing, it is important to push water deeper into the soil to promote them to reach for water. Phase 3 follows after the seeding has matured past 90-100 days where weekly deep waterings are the best way to maximize the vigor of the space. This is the maintenance period of watering and can be applied to the seasons after installation. Water only as needed.

Spring Seeding Watering Schedule

Phase 1: 0-21/30 days. Germination phase of seed. Water once daily in areas with less than 3 hours of sunlight (part shade to shade). Water for 10-15 minutes. For areas with full sun (4-8 hours), water 2 times daily, 12pm and 5/6pm. For sites with 8-12 hours, 3 times daily watering at 10am, 2pm, and 6pm for 10-15 minutes.

Phase 2: 30-90 days. 30-90 days. The new plants are working on rooting themselves in this stage. Here, the frequent watering of phase 1 should transition to less frequent, deeper waterings. For shadier spots, 30 minutes every 4 days should be appropriate. For full sun areas, 30 minutes every 2-3 days is appropriate. If there are areas where water is starting to pool and sit for more than 6 hours after watering, this is a sign that too much water is being applied. Reduce time until any lingering pooling water is eliminated.

Phase 3: 90/100 days and beyond. Here the new seeding has been well established and it is time to transition to the least frequent schedule. This is where a deep weekly watering is best. For shadier areas, this is equivalent to 1/2” of rain weekly. For sunny areas, approximately 1” rain weekly is better. This is ideally performed in the early morning of around 6am to allow for some evaporation on the plants to reduce the potential for fungal issues. For sites with 8-12 hours of sun, a watering later in the evening at 7-8pm is appropriate to give the water extra time to soak in over the cooler evening hours.

Late Summer Seeding/Fall Watering Schedule

For a late summer Flowering Lawn seeding, usually only Phase 1 is needed during the first year (late summer into fall). From here Phase 2 tends to be naturally supported by the cooler wetter conditions of the fall and following spring. Phase 3 generally begins in the June/July time frame the following season. Depending on your site conditions and aesthetic goals, phase 3 water can be eliminated. Shadier sites tend to hold up well to no supplemental irrigation during the summer. For sites with full sun, a weekly waterings will allow the grass to maintain its green appearance and prevent dormancy. No watering can be performed in the summer if you do not mind the grass going dormant (changing color to tan). If allowing the grass to go dormant, it is imperative that mowing and foot traffic be eliminated for this area. Either of these activities will stress the grass that is trying to hibernate until wetter/ cooler conditions present themselves again.

Established Eco Lawn Maintenance

Watering

After a full season, your grass has generally established itself and is well rooted. This is where a more nuanced approach can be taken with the lawn area. If you wish to maintenance a green and actively growing lawn during periods of drought in the summer, weekly deep waterings are called for. This typically involves shady areas with the equivalent of 1/2” of rain and in sunnier spots, 1” of rain equivalent. To calibrate your watering, we recommend purchasing sprinkler calibration cups to measure the amount of water being applied. This is performed by laying out evenly 8+ gauges in the watering zone and running the water for 10-15 minutes. Take the average of the readings and extrapolate how much time is needed to reach the recommended watering. If the watering duration is too long to reach the recommended application, splitting it into two passes over consecutive days is recommended.

If you would like to take a lower maintenance approach to your lawn and avoid watering during the summer, then you will need to understand the growth cycle of the grasses. The dominant grasses in our lawns are cool season grasses (meaning they are at their best during the spring and fall seasons). They appreciate cooler temperatures and fairly consistent rainfall. If you do not water during times of drought, then they will naturally tan and go dormant. This does not mean the grass is dead, but instead it is the grass’s natural protection mechanism of engaging dormancy. When weather becomes favorable again, the grass will naturally green up and start growing again. The key to helping it survive dormancy is removing the stress of heavy foot traffic (no sports or heavy animal traffic) and to avoid mowing.

Spring Maintenance

Typically, in the spring we recommend the application of corn gluten which is a natural nitrogen fertilizer and pre-emergent weed control. This will support the grass and give it a boost for the season ahead. This is not going to be as effective as chemical pre emergents at controlling crab grass, but will provide benefits that compound season over season. Mowing during the spring typically is at the highest frequency for the season. Our eco grass fescue blends are very slow growing and will only need 1-2 mows per month during this time to maintain a manicured appearence. If there are other grasses or weeds in the lawn, maintenance frequency may need to be every 1-2 weeks to balanced a manicured look. The lawn can be mowed once towards the end of May/early June to keep it looking semi manicured.

Summer Maintenance

Depending on rainfall of the season, the active growth cycle of the grass can continue into the summer (during consistent rains) or start to taper off by the beginning/end of June. Mowing once a month during a wet summer or avoiding mowing for the month during drought is recommended. Those who wish to leave areas of their lawn unmowed as part of No Mow May, are be best to leave these areas unmowed during the summer for maximizing habitat and flowering potential in the lawn. For a more manicured very low mowing schedule, a single mowing at the end of May/early June before summer heat would do well to reset grass heights while leaving clover to flower in June undisturbed. The grass will not grow much at all when temps start to climb.

Fall Maintenance

Typically grass will start greening up again in late August-September depending on when rain returns and temps start to decline. During a cool/ wet late summer or early fall, another 1 - 2 mows before the end of October might be needed to keep the grass in a manicured state. If the grass has been left unmowed for the season, we recommend a final mowing in mid to end of October to reset its growth before the winter and to best ready it for next season. Fall is also the best time to perform lawn aeration as a way to introduce oxygen and fall/winter moisture into the soil. For lawns that are struggling, fertilizer and lime applications are best done September-October. Typically our eco lawn blends enjoy lean- low fertility soils so this is not a necessary step unless it is a high traffic play space with higher levels of stress and wear during the season.