With your new trees and shrubs in the ground here are our guidelines for its establishment and continued health.

Watering

The number one requirement for the healthy establishment of your woody plants is its watering. There are different considerations to take into account depending on the size of the material at time of installation and the season it was installed. As a general guiding principal you should be looking to water deeply at least once a week. If you have opted for our drip irrigation installation, the emitters and timer program are calibrated to follow our recommended guidelines for watering maintenance. Refer to the plant maturity guideline for expected number of seasons drip irrigation is to be utilized.

Spring Installation

Spring is a great time for installing woodies into your landscape. Key to its successful establishment is its regular watering. During this first season the plant is getting settled and has not put out mature roots into the soil. With this in mind we recommend regular watering to help plants during their establishment. The caveat to this is if regular rain events occur, producing average rains of 1” weekly, frequent waterings are unnecessary.

4 Hours or Less of Sun = weekly watering

4-8+ Hours Sun = watering every 5 Days

8-12+ Hours Sun = watering every 3-5 Days and using signs of drought stress (wilting leaves) to signal cycle frequency

Fall Installation

Installing woody plants in the fall is a great time to establish plants. Typically watering requirements are reduced due to the cooler and rainier conditions. Watering will vary depending on how late in the season the installation was performed. As a general guide, watering up until the first significant frost is recommended.

Deciduous

With deciduous plants, as they are losing their leaves and after leaf drop, watering is less critical as the plants are going into dormancy. It is unlikely their roots will dry out as they are surrounded by soil and insulated well. A weekly watering until frost will be great to keep its roots from drying out.

Evergreen

With evergreen plants, watering is more important as they are actively growing all season. Watering up until your outside hose bibs are closed is recommended to ensure good moisture at the root level before winter temperatures when watering is not possible. Should consistent rains be present producing on average of 1” of rain weekly, this will be sufficient in watering your plants. A final deep soaking before turning off house water is recommended to keep the soil moist through the winter months.

4 Hours or Less of Sun = weekly watering

4-8+ Hours Sun = watering every 5 Days

8-12+ Hours Sun = watering every 3-5 Days and using signs of drought stress (wilting leaves) to signal cycle frequency

Watering Instructions

For all plants deep waterings are ideal at soaking the plant down to the base of its rootball. This can happen in the form of watering with a shower spray pattern with your watering hose attachment or running a hose and having water trickle out of it’s end for a very slow release. With either the water should be focused at the base of the plant and allow for the watering dish that was created at time of its installation to fill. If utilizing the shower wand method, fill the watering dish as the base of the plant fully, wait for the water to soak into the soil, and repeat a 2nd time. If utilizing the trickle method, water might not fill to the top if your soils are well draining. Watering each plant 10-60 minutes (depending on volume of water flow and infiltration rate of soil) or until watering dish is full is a good general guideline.

Plant Maturity Watering Guidelines

3-7 Gallon sized Plants - Watering for at least 1 season after installation is recommended. Afterwards watering at signs of drought stress is recommended as needed.

10-25 Gallon sized plants - Regular Watering for at least 2 seasons after installations is recommended. Afterwards watering at signs of drought stress is recommended as needed.

Ball & Burlap sized plants - Regular Watering for at least 3 seasons after installations is recommended. Afterwards watering at signs of drought stress is recommended as needed. Slow trickle watering with the end of a hose or with soaker hose is recommended for best soaking, Expect to run water for 20-60 minutes depending on soil drainage.

Pruning

There is nuance to every plant when it comes to pruning but here are some general guidelines that will ensure healthy plants

Deciduous Woodies

For trees and shrubs that drop their leaves typically the best time to prune is when they are dormant. We usually prune in late winter/early spring to avoid winter and summer stresses. Some plants that flower on old wood, might have a reduction in flowering. The best time to prune and maximize the flowering potential of the plant is after flowering. Typically unless the pruning method is a hard pruning (removing most of the mature branches on a plant) flowering is not reduced to the point of negatively impacting its flowering display. With this in mind, pruning during the season is often appropriate and possible. We typically stop pruning by September to avoid and new growth that emerges after pruning to be damaged from winter freezing.

Evergreen Woodies

Similar to deciduous plants, evergreens benefit from pruning outside of the late fall/winter time frames. Here maintenance pruning during the summer is recomended to keep more formally pruned plants in shape (yews, arborvitae, boxwood). Again we avoid pruning after September to avoid new growth from being damaged from winter temperatures as it gives the plant time to harden off this new growth.

Fertilization

Typically we do not recomend constant fertilization for our plants. At the time of planting, organic mater and fertilizer is utilized for the plants establishment. In average typical soils this is generally enough to get a plant going and maintain its health. In circumstances where a plant looks to be struggling, hard pruning is performed, or certain elements like fruit bearing or flower production are a consideration (like blueberries or hydrangeas) fertilization can be a great way to help a plant rebound for the season. Typically fertilization is performed in the early to mid spring time season to provide the boost a plant needs as the growing season starts. Rarely do we recomend summer or fall fertilization unless specific maintenance is performed where fertilization would help the plant recover. Watering is typically the recommended maintenance for summer to stressed plants. Using an organic slow release fertilizer like Plant Tone or Holly Tone will ensure that the plants are not burned by over fertilization.

With our suburban meadows we aim to create low maintenance and beautiful spaces for our clients and pollinators to enjoy. Here is an outline of establishment expectations and general maintenance guidelines for its success.

Watering

The most critical time for the meadow’s establishment is in its first month. Here is we recommend performing supplimental watering as needed. Unlike woody plants, the native grasses and wildflowers roots grow much more rapidly and can establish themselves very quickly. We look at the first weeks as the most critical for aiding this. After the first season watering is not a requirement and can be performed to taste. During prolonged droughts the plants will often react by growing less tall, flowering, less and converting their energy to producing seed earlier than in times of more abundant water. Under these drought conditions watering will help prolong bloom times and keep the plants looking fuller but is by no means necessary for the long term success of the plants. On the other side, overwatering during times of abundant natural rain could lead to adverse plant health. Watering should always be deep and less frequent to avoid oversaturated soils and root rot. Letting the soil slightly dry out between waterings will promote deeper root developement.

Spring Installations

Typically we recommend utilizing a form of overhead irrigation like a tripod sprinkler. Watering once a week for an extended time, typically 30 minutes to an hour will allow for a deep watering and provide the plants the water they need. If installed during a drought, watering every 4 days for the first couple weeks will help keep the soil moisture elevated and keep the more immature roots happy. Weekly waterings during the summer are great if you want to set a sprinkler up and not worry about drought stress. If you prefer a more nuanced take, watering as needed during drought which could be every 1-2 weeks. With summer’s that have consistent weekly or bi monthly rain, watering is not necessary and can lead to overwatering which is more of a concern with our meadows.

Fall Installations

Typically most of the grasses and flowers we install are headed into dormancy and seed production by September and October. During this time, watering is more about keeping the roots moist enough to not dry out instead of supporting active growth. We typically recommend weekly/bi weekly watering up until October to help facilitate this. If seasonal rains are present, watering at all is largely unnecessary. Again because plants are dormant or going dormant, watering is not as critical for plant health at this time of the season.

Weeding

The most critical time to keep unwanted plants out of the garden is during the first season of the garden’s establishment. Mechanical pulling or in the case of some invasive or perennial weeds systemic herbicide applications are recommended to keep the balance of your new garden. As the planting matures and the canopy of the plants close, less weeds will present themselves due to being shaded out. June, July, and August will be the prime months to monitor the space for unwanted growth and removal. Annual weeds such as crab grass are less of a concern as it will unlikely effect the more mature perennial grasses and flowers installed and will fade from the planting as it is shaded out. Annual weeds like horseweed are better plants to focus on as their height and prolific seeding will persist if allowed to go to seed. Controlling annual weeds by removing them before setting seed is the most critical step to keeping them out of the meadow. Spot weeding as necessary after the garden has matured during the summer months is recommended.

Cutbacks & Deadheading

The growth cycle of your meadow is most active during May-October. Outside of this time frame, the garden can be cut back to reset old spent growth. When you do that is dependent on your aesthetic and ecological goals for the space. A spring time cut back is best if you wish to provide the most overwintering habitat for beneficial insects and sources of seed for song birds. Typically we preform a cut back between April-May. We also love the look of grasses and the seed heads of the flowers through the winter. A late fall cut back can be performed of all growth during the mid to late fall, October-December. This is best if you want to reset the area before spring and do not appreciate the aesthetics of a meadow in the winter months. This will not harm the plants as they have all gone dormant at this time of year. The tools for cutting back can be a push mower, hedge trimmer, or pruning sheers. The material can be removed from the space, or left over the bed as a natural mulch. Using a mower over the space will allow for the material to be mulched and be the least visible before new growth emerges. A standard gas or electric push mower set to the highest cut setting will be a great tool for managing the meadow. One just needs to go slower and expect multiple passes to cut all material. Taller or denser grasses may benefit from being cut back with hedge trimmers or sheers before mowing. Cut back height is 4-6” above the ground to avoid damaging the crowns of the plants.

Dead heading, cutting flowers that are turning to seed heads, during the season can be done to taste. Some flowering species will response to dead heading with a second flush of flowering growth. Dead heading is by no means necessary to he health of a garden and we generally recommend leaving seed heads up as they provide visual interest and food for birds. Dead heading can also be a way of controlling the spread of certain plants in the garden. Typically our gardens do not include super aggressive large plants that spread vigorously by seed but dead heading and removing seed is a way to help ensure plants do not dance around the garden.

For our larger spaces, we look toward seeding native wildflowers and grasses to transition landscapes to ecologically abundant and beautiful spaces. The establishment and maintenance requirements are slightly different than our suburban meadows and the typical lawn. Here we go over the establishment and long term maintenance of these spaces.

Native Meadow Establishment

Watering

Different from typical turf grass and lawn establishment, native grasses and wildflowers and more adaptable to less frequent rain and moisture for establishment. To ensure good first season germination we typically recomend at least a weekly watering of the space. A longer deeper watering is performed for this. More frequent watering is possible to push quicker germination but is not necessary. If seeded in the fall or very early spring, watering can be avoided all together if the size of the space makes it prohibitive or too costly. With irrigation there is more flexibility as to when the meadow can be seeded and allows for seeding into the summer months (June-July).

Weeding

Typically before our native meadow seeding work, at least one herbicide pass is performed to kill existing growth for the space. Two or more passes are performed to provide a more thorough control of cool and warm season weeds. This sets up your meadow for the least amount of competition during its establishment season when plants are more focused on root growth than flowering or foliage. If only one herbicide pass was performed, or the site has an especially prolific weed seed bank infrequent mowing of the space during its first season is recommended to prevent weeds from seeding and to prevent the slower the establish native grasses and wildflowers from being shaded out. While it might be painful to mow down annual or biennial wildflowers during this time, it will long term be a better approach than letting an abundance of weeds from establishing.

For more perennial weeds or woody plants, hand pulling or spot herbicide treatments are recommended when they are immature.

Native Meadow Maintenance

After the first season the plants in your meadow have established roots and are on their way to thriving. There will be some plants that have not fully matured and flower yet, but will be healthy enough to be left on their own. Watering after the first season will be unnecessary and controlling weeds will be the primary concern.

The meadow will want to be mowed seasonally. This can be either the late fall or early spring. A spring mowing will allow for the winter interest a meadow provides while also providing important habitat for insects. Mowing in April - May is recommended. To make the space more aesthetically tidy for the winter, a late fall (October-December) mowing can be performed. The seasonal mowing is also important to help curb woody plants from establishing themselves in the now infrequently mowed space. This is the main difference between your traditional lawn and a meadow. A lawn’s frequent mowing curbs any growth from most woody species. With a meadow because mowing has been reduced to seasonal cuts, woody plants will have the opportunity to establish themselves if not controlled seasonally. Invasive species like asiatic bittersweet will want to be managed during the summer months as seasonal mowing will not hinder their ability to persist year over year.

Mowable Meadow Establishment

With our mowable meadows, the approach to creating a meadow is different than our native meadow establishment. We are seeding wildflowers in existing cool season turf grass lawns. As a result the timing and approach for establishment and maintenance is a bit different.

Watering

As with our native meadow seeding, watering does not need to be as frequent as with new lawn establishment. Typically a weekly watering is recomended to get wildflower seed to germinate. Avoiding watering all together is also an option if you wish to conserve water and have less reliable first season germination during times of drought.

Mowing

Different from the native meadow and the mowable meadow is that the grasses in a mowable meadow are cool season and thus grow most actively during the spring when the flowers are still dormant or just emerging. Especially when a space is newly seeded, mowing the grass until July is recommended to keep the height of the grass shorter and allow for better germination of the wildflower seed. In the fall, while we typically recommend keeping a native meadow still standing, we do recommend cutting back the mowable meadow to keep the cool season grasses from becoming too matted and building up to much material for spring.

Mowable Meadow Maintenance

Watering

With our mowable meadows we do not recommend watering after the first season. The reason for this is that we are utilizing the different growth charateristics of the the wildflowers to thrive during times when the cool season grasses will be dormant. In fact the idea of this approach came from a drought that left most lawns brown during the summer. With the mowable meadow we embrace the cool season grass summer dormancy and look towards the more drought tolerant wildflowers to provide the verdant greens and flowers during this time.

Mowing

Mowing the mowable meadow offers some nuance. An area can be left unmowed until the fall part of the season, for a more traditional taller meadow grass aethetic (typically ~2 feet tall). Alterntaively the grass can be mowed up until June to keep the grass heights short and allow the flowers to be more visually dominant in the summer. With both a fall cut back of the entire space is recommended to reset growth for the following season.

Over Seeding

Due to the nature of the growth charatericstis of some cool season turf grasses, an annual overseeding of more wildflowers in the fall is recomended to continue the work of establishing more flowers in the space. We perform this typically during our aeration service as the seed can be deposited in the holes made from aeration.

Flowering Lawn Establishment

Overseeding Existing Lawn

Watering

The typical situation where our flowering lawn seed mix is into an existing lawn space. When seeding into an existing established lawn we typically do not recomend supplimental irrigation for the germination of the seed. There are multiple reasons for this.

1. The short frequent watering schedule for new seedlings is counter to the health of an established lawn and could promote other fungal diseases.

2. We are not concerned about establishing roots to prevent erosion as the grass is already performing that function.

3. The grass is a natural mulch and moisture regulator. Because the seed is protected by the grass layer from baking in the sun, more moisture is kept at the soil surface than with a bare ground seeding. Also the grass is keeping the heat of the direct sun off the of seed allowing it to remain cooler and moister for better germination.

4. Extra watering of lawn could promote more vigorous grass growth making it harder for the new seeds to germinate and establish.

We are overseeding the area with a lot of seed per square foot and dont expect every seed to germinate. With this we look towards the natural cool and wet cycles of Spring and fall to do the work for us. And where the rain conditions are not present for good germination, the seeds will remain dormant until weather allows for the natural germination of the plants.

First Season Maintenance

There will not be much in the way of flowers the first season. Typically the seeds are germinating and establishing their roots. It is during the second season where flowers will be more prominent. To that end we recommend mowing the space as you would your lawn (weekly or bi weekly) during the active growth of the Spring and fall. As with all lawns we recommend keeping cutting height in the 3.5”-4.5” height range to not stress grass or scalp the seedlings. This will help keep light and resources reaching the new seedlings during their establishment season.

Second Season Maintenance & Beyond

It is during the second season that there is more flexibility in how the flowering lawn is managed. Here we can mow less frequently or not at all depending on your aesthetic goals. Getting at least one mow in before the end of May will reset the peak of spring cool season grass growth and setup the late spring and summer floral display. June and July will offer peak blooms in the lawn and avoiding mowing during this time will help promote more blooms. A monthly cut at the end of June might promote a second flowering flush and could be experimented with in your landscape.

Mowing again at least once during the fall season is recomended to setup the space for new spring growth the following season.

New Seeding Bare Ground

When starting a new flowering lawn from scratch, we always recommend watering for at least the first season. The reason for this is that we want even germination to get roots in the ground and stabilize the bare soil from erosion. If our client has opted out of Green Abundance setting up the irrigation then here are some guidelines to follow for watering on your own.

Spring Seeding Watering Schedule

Phase 1: 0-21/30 days. Germination phase of seed. Water once daily in areas with less than 3 hours of sunlight (part shade to shade). Ideal time is around. Water for 10-15 minutes. For areas with Full sun 4-8 hours of, water 2 times daily, 12pm and 5/6pm. For sites with 8-12 hours 3 times daily watering at 10am, 2pm, 6pm for 10-15 minutes.

Phase 2: 30-90 days. The new plants are working on rooting themselves in this stage. Here the frequent watering of phase 1 should transition to less frequent deeper waterings. For shadier spots 30 minutes every 4 days should be appropriate. For Full sun areas 30 minutes every 2-3 days is appropriate. If there are areas where water is starting to pool and sit for more than 6 hours after watering, this is a sign that too much water is being applied. Reduce time until any lingering pooling water is eliminated.

Phase 3: 90/100 days and beyond. Here the new seeding has been well established and it is time to transition to the least frequent schedule. This is where a deep weekly watering is best. For shadier areas this is equivalent to 1/2” of rain weekly. For sunny areas approx 1” rain weekly is better. This is ideally performed in the early morning of around 6am to allow for some evaporation on the plants to reduce the potential for fungal issues. For sites with 8-12 hours of sun, a watering later in the evening at 7-8pm is appropriate to give the water extra time to soak in over the cooler evening hours.

Late Summer Seeding/Fall Watering Schedule

For a late summer seeding, usually only Phase 1 is needed during the first year (late summer into fall). From here Phase 2 tends to be naturally supported by the cooler wetter conditions of the fall and following spring. Phase 3 would generally begin in the June/July time frame the following season. Depending on your site conditions and aesthetic goals, phase 3 water could be eliminated. Shadier sites tend to hold up well to no supplimental irrigation during the summer. For sites with full sun, the weekly waterings will allow the grass to maintain its green appearance and prevent dormancy. No watering could be performed in the summer if you do not mind the grass going dormant (changing color to tan). If allowing the grass to go dormant, it is imperative that mowing and foot traffic be eliminated for this area. Either of these activities will stress the grass that is trying to hibernate until wetter cooler conditions present itself again.

First Season Maintenance

Mowing will not be a main requirement during the first year but the space could benefit from some monthly mows during the establishment. This would be helpful in the case on controlling annual weeds from seeding or if annual rye was used as part of the mix, controlling its height and preventing it from seeding. Keeping heavy foot traffic out of the area is recomended and will allow for more even establishment of healthier plants.

Second Season Maintenance

It is during the second season that there is more flexibility in how the flowering lawn is managed. With the flowers and grasses now better established, a more typical mowing regiment is possible or not at all depending on your aesthetic goals. Getting at least one mow in before the end of May will reset the peak of spring cool season grass growth and setup the late spring and summer floral display to be more prominent with an overall shorter more manicured height. June and July will offer peak blooms in the lawn and avoiding mowing during this time will help promote more blooms. A monthly cut at the end of June might promote a second flowering flush and could be experimented with in your landscape.

Mowing again at least once during the fall season is recomended to setup the space for new spring growth the following season.

Congrats on your new ecologically minded lawn. This section will go over the establishment and maintenance guiltiness to keep your investment healthy and thriving for years to come.

Eco Lawn Establishment

Watering

The biggest success to the establishment of a new lawn will be its watering. To better understand the watering requirements for your new seeding please reference the following guidelines.

Establishment Phases

Phase 1 is designed maximize the germination of the newly installed seed, frequent shallow waterings improve seed germination rates. with Phase 1, the frequent shallow watering is designed to keep the top layer of soil moist and prime the seed for good germination. After about 20-30 days the majority of seed will have germinated and phase 1 of its life cycle is complete. Phase 2 begins after this where less frequent and a bit deeper watering is appropriate. As the roots are developing it is important to push water deeper into the soil to promote them to reach for water. Phase 3 follows after the seeding has matured past the 90-100 days where weekly deep waterings are the best way to maximize the vigor of the space. This is the maintenance period of watering and can be applied to the seasons after installation.

Spring Seeding Watering Schedule

Phase 1: 0-21/30 days. Germination phase of seed. Water once daily in areas with less than 3 hours of sunlight (part shade to shade). Ideal time is around. Water for 10-15 minutes. For areas with Full sun 4-8 hours of, water 2 times daily, 12pm and 5/6pm. For sites with 8-12 hours 3 times daily watering at 10am, 2pm, 6pm for 10-15 minutes.

Phase 2: 30-90 days. The new plants are working on rooting themselves in this stage. Here the frequent watering of phase 1 should transition to less frequent deeper waterings. For shadier spots 30 minutes every 4 days should be appropriate. For Full sun areas 30 minutes every 2-3 days is appropriate. If there are areas where water is starting to pool and sit for more than 6 hours after watering, this is a sign that too much water is being applied. Reduce time until any lingering pooling water is eliminated.

Phase 3: 90/100 days and beyond. Here the new seeding has been well established and it is time to transition to the least frequent schedule. This is where a deep weekly watering is best. For shadier areas this is equivalent to 1/2” of rain weekly. For sunny areas approx 1” rain weekly is better. This is ideally performed in the early morning of around 6am to allow for some evaporation on the plants to reduce the potential for fungal issues. For sites with 8-12 hours of sun, a watering later in the evening at 7-8pm is appropriate to give the water extra time to soak in over the cooler evening hours.

Late Summer Seeding/Fall Watering Schedule

For a late summer seeding, usually only Phase 1 is needed during the first year (late summer into fall). From here Phase 2 tends to be naturally supported by the cooler wetter conditions of the fall and following spring. Phase 3 would generally begin in the June/July time frame the following season. Depending on your site conditions and aesthetic goals, phase 3 water could be eliminated. Shadier sites tend to hold up well to no supplimental irrigation during the summer. For sites with full sun, the weekly waterings will allow the grass to maintain its green appearance and prevent dormancy. No watering could be performed in the summer if you do not mind the grass going dormant (changing color to tan). If allowing the grass to go dormant, it is imperative that mowing and foot traffic be eliminated for this area. Either of these activities will stress the grass that is trying to hibernate until wetter cooler conditions present itself again.

Established Eco Lawn Maintenance

Watering

After a full season, your grass has generally established itself and is well rooted. This is where a more nuanced approach can be taken with the lawn area. If you wish to maintenance a green and actively growing lawn during the summer during periods of drought, weekly deep waterings are called for. This typically involves shady areas with the equivalent of 1/2” of rain and in sunnier spots 1” of rain equivalent. To calibrate your watering we recomend purchasing some sprinkler calibration cups to measure the amount of water being applied. This is performed by laying out evenly 8+ gauges in the watering zone and running the water for 10-15 minutes. Take the average of the readings and extrapolate how much time is needed to reach the recommended watering. If the watering duration is too long to reach the recommended application, splitting it into two passes over consecutive days is recommended.

If you would like to take a lower maintenance approach to your lawn and avoid watering during the summer, then you will need to understand the growth cycle of the grasses. The dominant grasses in our lawns are cool season grasses meaning they are at their best during the spring and fall seasons. They appreciate cooler temperatures and fairly consistent rainfall. If you do not water during times of drought then they will naturally brown and go dormant. This is not mean the grass is dead, but instead it engages dormancy and is a natural protection mechanism. When weather becomes favorable again, they will naturally come back, green up and start growing again. The key to it surviving dormancy is to remove the stresses of heavy foot traffic (no sports or heavy animal traffic) and to avoid mowing.

Spring Maintenance

Typically in the spring we recomend the application of corn gluten which is a natural nitrogen fertilizer and preemergent weed control. This will support the grass and give it a boost for the season ahead. This is not going to be as effective as chemical pre emergents at controlling crab grass but will provide benefits that compound season over season. Mowing during the spring typically is at the highest frequency for the season. Our eco grass fescue blends are very slow growing and will only need 1-2 mows per month during this time to maintain a manicured appearence. If there are other grasses or weeds in the lawn, this frequency may need to be every 1-2 weeks to maintain a balanced manicured look. The lawn could be mowed once towards the end of May/early June to keep it looking semi manicured.

Summer Maintenance

Depending on the rainfall of the season the active growth cycle of the grass could continue into the summer during consistent rains or start to taper off by the beginning/end of June. Mowing every 1-2 weeks during active growth or avoiding mowing for the month during drought is recommended. Those who wish to leave areas of their lawn unmowed as part of no mow may, would be best to leave these areas unmowed during the summer for maximizing habitat and flowering potential in the lawn. A single mowing at the end of May before summer would do well to reset grass heights while leaving clover to flower in June undisturbed.

Fall Maintenance

In the fall we usually recomend mowing up until mid October and that includes mowing any areas that have been left unmowed during the season. This time is also the best time to perform lawn aeration as a way to introduce oxygen and fall/winter moisture into the soil. For lawns that are struggling, fertilizer and lime applications are best done during this time in September-October. Typically our eco lawn blends enjoy lean low fertility soils so this is not a necessary step unless it is a high traffic play space with higher levels of stress and wear during the season.